Beach Hike/Walk: Lantau Trail Section 11 Pui O (Beach) to Cheung Sha Beach

Distance: 4.5 kilometres total but we just did 3.7 km as we skipped the road parts

Duration: 1.5 hours

Difficulty: 1/3 stars Easy Walk

Date: Saturday 27 September 2014

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On the Saturday of our Mui Wo Staycation (post and link up soon): While the whole of Hong Kong was thrown into chaos, I was having a birthday extension weekend at Lantau. We chose the easiest bits of the Lantau Trail because it’s still too hot to do anything too strenuous.

S.W.E.A.T.

SWEATFEST

We decided to do Lantau Trail Section 11 the other way around because we would rather end up in Cheung Sha Beach than in Pui O. Pui O beach is great (try the California-style Mavericks restaurant) but Cheung Sha has a magic for me that’s unmatchable in Hong Kong – not even by Sai Kung, I daresay. Especially Lower Sheung Sha Beach, which is almost completely devoid of infrastructure, with free cattle roaming in every now and then.

Upper and Lower Cheung Sha combined is the longest beach in Hong Kong, with sand stretching out almost 3km

It was a Saturday and yet when we arrived at Lower Cheung Sha for sunset, there was hardly anyone there. By nightfall, there was no light to distract from the majestic sparkle of the stars overhead. It was a perfect evening..

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View of Pui O and Chi Wa Man Peninsula

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Since we started at Pui O, our trek was probably a little more difficult since we had to go uphill from water level

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We only encountered 1 group of people the entire hike. Other than that it was pretty empty.

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…that’s probably because comparatively this section of the Lantau Trail (11) is pretty boring. Aside from the section close to Pui O, the rest of the trail is just a concrete walk beside a catchwater. Bo-ring.

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After this point it gets less interesting.

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Lantau is full of these big spiders. I remember them from the trek to the Man Cheung Po Infinity Pool

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Unfortunately we didn’t have enough sunlight left to do board sports in the end, so that will be left to next time. You can rent boards at either Palm Beach or Cabrinha beside the Stoep in Upper Cheung Sha Beach.

@Palm Beach: I really wanted to rent one of these teepees but they were fully booked for that weekend! 😦

This map from the government is actually wrong because we didn't end in Tung Chung Road. Another map on the trail told us to keep going to a differently-marked end, around 1km off.

This map from the government is actually wrong because we didn’t end in Tung Chung Road. Another map on the trail told us to keep going to a differently-marked end, around 1km off.

We ended in this intersection which we took downhill to arrive at Cheung Sha Beach

We ended in this intersection which we took downhill to arrive at Cheung Sha Beach

After watching the sunset, we got hungry and went in search of food. The Palm Beach Village had several private barbecues going on, and the smell was making us hungry. But rather than crashing someone’s party, we decided to cut across the rocks to the restaurants on Upper Cheung Sha. We were directed to a ‘secret’ path that went through the vegetation connecting lower and upper Cheung Sha. Thank God I still had 12% battery on my phone to light the way, and it didn’t take more than an 8 minute walk. Our other two options (had we not been told about this path) would be to head back up to South Lantau Road (15 minutes) or to pick our way over the boulders by the shore, separating the beaches. In the morning you can make your way over the rocks but it would have been too dangerous at night. Remember: there was NO LIGHT at all on this beach, especially on Lower Cheung Sha!

There were more establishments around but we decided to eat at the most famous one – the South African/Mediterranean restaurant “The Stoep”

It was like the forces were with us that evening. The Stoep was even better than I remembered, the food was sooo good and most things in the menu were under HKD100! We got the South African “Tomato Bredie” – a lamb stew with carrots. Under HK$100. It was absolutely delicious. Don’t forget to order it with garlic bread to dip. We also got the Garlic Butter Sizzling Tiger Prawns which I was so scared to order because the dish is a make or break – either it’s divine or not fresh and rubbery. It was the former. Heavenly. The food was so good we actually came back the next day for lunch and ordered more. I know there are other options on Upper Cheung Sha but we couldn’t get enough of The Stoep. Maybe next time!

Next up: Mui Wo Staycation and Day 2: Lantau Trail Section 9 (harder but better and more rewarding than Section 11).

Stay safe, Hong Kong, and have a wonderful Golden Week ahead! I’m flying home tomorrow but my heart goes out to the city which has impressed me so much with their peaceful but determined stand for democracy.

Signing off, J.

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